Some thoughts on French White Burgundy

All the Best of wine lists are coming out about now and it's made me think about some of what I've been drinking more of this year and that's French white Burgundy. So many of the 2008 and 2009's I have tasted have shown alot of good flavors and acidity, good drinking but you can tell that these can hold up for several years. The 2009's have more acidity on the surface making for some lively wines.

Here are some thoughts on the French Burgundy wine styles. I and expansively toured the French region in the summer 2007 in what I would call a whirlwind yet very detailed gastronomical experience.

Chablis - has a very high acidity and givers you a real accurate expression of the terroir, limestone chalk and flint. Premeirs and Gand Cru's especially can be very fresh. I guess you still need to mention it...Chablis is not the fake California one you used to see ages ago...seek it out..it's all good. Some of it can be pricey but worth it.

Mersault - can be ripe and can be rich and heavy, it can be smooth or it can be very tenacious with alot of minerality like wet stones. very alive. Harder to find sometimes

Chassagne-Montrachet - in the higher slpopes you find arguably the greatest expression of Chardonnay floral, smooth crisp very cool sometimes racy or spicy with sweet fruit. Probably the most consistent in the region that I've tasted over time. It costs a bit more because there's just not alot of it around in retrospect; but if you see it and can swing it try it.

Rully - full of fruit and a steely, very fresh and unemotional, this is a positive especially for seafood and shellfish. These always taste very classic to me.

St. Aubin - Juicy wines that are racy with delicious fresh fruit sometimes you can smell things like leaves on the trees; these wines have a focus and feel reserved to my palate.

Maconnais - at the southern end of Burgundy these wines are have a developed and rounded feel to the with big acidity and freshness. you look for balance in these wines and when you find it, it's a knock out. It's where you say "try this...it tastes like it costs a fortune!" Great with Camambert or Brie Cheese!

All in all. I feel pretty strong about this wine region and its good to see how these wines standup to the American counterparts. There's that great movie 'Bottleshock' that goes into that and it's just as good as the 'Sideways.' movie.

Book Review - Grand Vini 2010 – Joseph Bastianich 2010

Grand Vini 2010 – Joseph Bastianich

Wine restaurant tsar and all around Italian wine ace; breaks down his 89 favorites.  Italian wine based on his preferences and relationships. Italian Wine is so infinite and Joseph’s passion and authority makes this a book that can be picked up again and again for reference and nuance

Get Ready For The Loire!

The Holiday’s are upon us and that means abundant wine and great food. The Beaujolais season is here. But that’s not all that goes good with the seasonal food. There are also the great Rhone wines and the elegant Burgundies.

Yet arguably, the home of the most delicious seasonal wines is the Loire region; sort of where the unadulterated French wine is located.

Loire wines are mouthwatering and have lightness, casualness and brightness that put a twist in the flavors of those who love powerful Rhônes or elegant Burgundies. There is really not a heavy Loire wine, nor a high-alcohol Loire wine, white or red.

What’s incredible is the uniformity of appeal for the wines in the Loire that cuts across a 630-mile area near the Beaujolais region to the Atlantic Ocean. There are countless of vineyards and these really thrive and grow here because the countryside is dominated by rivers and moderate weather; with a lot of slopes and valleys. It is very rural. There are now 89 appellations.

With all this it’s hard to believe that it’s easy to understand this expansive area. Really? No Joke.

When you recognize that the region is dominated by a mere four major grape varieties - Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne and Cabernet Franc - the wines become accessible, and so enjoyable. This is the key in untangling the superficial difficulty of Loire wine.

With some good prices right now. It is the best time to jump in with both feet for crisp, lush, grassy, citrus gooseberry Sauvignon Blanc; the multipurpose Chenin Blanc in all its polish; fresh and zesty Melon; and the surprisingly rich fullness of the Loire’s Cabernet Francs.

Getting started...A really quick and very basic guide to Bordeaux grapes…Don’t blink!

A lot of people get confused with Bordeaux and sure there is a lot that can be learned and said about this famous wine place; enough for an encyclopedia. This is a paradise for these grapes with all kinds of different soils and weather. This place is the benchmark for quality that is the reference point to all wine. In this quick guide I will keep it very very simple… I put together a pronunciation chart and a tasting chart that's posted that can be downloaded as well.

The main Reds are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The main Whites are Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle. The whites produced in Bordeaux are both sweet and dry.

The great wine areas of Bordeaux are St.- Estephe, Pauillac, St.-Julien, Margaux, Graves and Passac-Leognan, St. Emillon, Pomerol, Sauternes/Barsax and a bunch of other smaller excellent Satellite Apellations.

For a quick list...Guys/Gals that you can call about French Wines are The Bern's Steakhouse (they have the most incredible legendary cellar) and B-21's in the Tampa area. Total Wine is another one to consider because they do carry plenty of French wine.

The Reds:

Cabernet Sauvignon is dark and tannic . It can be very astringent and provide the backbone for a wine. It can ripen late because of its think skin can be herbaceous, have cedar and tobacco nuances. You can often taste blackberries and dark plums among other flavors. It can age well.

Merlot ripens late as well but quicker than Cabernet sauvignon. It is often a lot softer than Cabernet Sauvignon and provides a chewy, supple round feel to the wine. It is usually bended with and is less acidic and tannic Cabernet Sauvignon. You can drink Merlot based wines a lot earlier but can age just as well.

Cabernet Franc is not very powerful. Yet it has a hot and sharp-tasting quality to it. It has a black olive hint to it as well as this wild grassy flair that when blended makes flavors and bouquet of the wine prism. It’s usually used in smaller quantities for influencing weight of the wine.

Petit Verdot is an intense wine with puckering tannins. It can be tasty and high in alcohol. It is very dark and not very easy to grow during harvest of Bordeaux because it ripens very late. If it is picked to early it can be extremely bitter which can throw off a wine. It is not used in some places in Bordeaux.

The Whites:

Sauvignon Blanc is used for making the dry wines that you find in Graves and the sweet wines that you find in Sauternes. It is a grape with a lot of minerality. It is grassy to the nose and is crispy. In Sauternes it is used to blend with Semillon in making the sweet wines.

Semillon is a grape that is fat! It is creamy with a lot of smoothness. It is used to make the legendary sweet wines of Sauternes and Barsac. The older it gets the more gelatinous it gets. It’s fruity too. It is also used to provide texture to the dry wines in Graves.

Muscadelle is a concentrated and ornamental grape that is used sparingly in Barsac and Sauternes and sometimes Graves. It is hard to grow because its can get sickly because it is so fragile but it gives off these great tropical flavors.

Some quick comments  on the great wine areas of Bordeaux. Now keep in mind these just observations…

St.- Estephe are firm, bold but very easy-to-read. They are fairly tannic and full bodied. They have an rigid austere quality which is good for aging.

Pauillac wines are among my favorites because they are medium to full bodied with black fruits, rich, powerful and have hints of tobacco and cedar.

St.-Julien have a good juicy currant fruit characteristics. They are mellower. They can be spicy with cedar notes

Margaux wines have great floral perfume representation. They are often more delicate and lighter than the St.-Estephe wines. Margaux wines are earthy and they have a lot of Cabernet Sauvignon and are very good young too.

Graves and Passac-Leognan wines have lingering taste that is toasty, earthy with tobacco, cedar and clay. You can taste the limestone and clay. They are very aromatic, light yet with deep flavors. The white wines are oaky and creamy

St. Emillon wines are herbaceous and juicy. Often mouthwatering with soft fruit  They use more Merlot and Cabernet Franc in the blends. Those grapes grow really well in St.-Emillon. The wines take on a lot of styles it seems. It makes the searching and the tasting enjoyable. A lot of new modern winemakers have been making wine in St.-Emillon which is cool.

Pomerol wines are the benchmark for Merlot based wines. Black cherries and cassis flavors abound. These wines can be velvety smooth. The wines are round and have a polished air to them not found in other areas; quite frankly in the world. There is a small production from Pomerol.

Sauternes/Barsac can range from honey and tropical fruits, sweet zesty citrus all the way to Graham crackers and pine nuts even flan/crème brulee. The taste can feel like glycerin. It can be extremely glamorous

The Satellite Appellations are where you find the best values. Whether it is Cannon-Fronsac, Lalande de Pomerol, Cotes de Bourg, Blaye, and Cotes de Castillon. These appellations are providing some of the most exciting wines of the past 10 years and are giving the classic areas a challenge because they make great appealing wines in an uncomplicated manner which is attractive to wine makers and producers. The consumers like this too. What’s not to like!?! This is where you find the overachievers and incredible sleeper wines that are good to drink within the first 5 years.

 

 

 

 

Brisket 101 – Low and Slow BBQ and Great Wine!

Brisket is the ruler of the low and slow BBQ. From what I can tell and the BBQ folks tell me. There are many more cuts of beef available these days than in the past. Brisket, you grill on low heat and allow for plenty of time. Make sure you have tin foil and a trusty meat thermometer....

This is the one that takes extra TLC and is marveled at in most BBQ competitions. The main secret is to cook it slow. It also allows you to open a few bottles of wine with friends as you gear up for the reward in a few hours. Great Times!

When you pick your meat, you need to make sure there is a substantial coat of fat on it. You want this. It makes for a juicier meat and you definitely want to trim it. This is called “first cut brisket” which is great for sandwich meat like pastrami, but it’s really not good for smoking. That’s other meats (which we can talk a little about another day).     

Once you’ve done all the prep, and it’s time to cook…Sear the meat for the meat on the grill for about 10 minutes on each side; and gives that underlying grill mark taste…make a little smoke...the smell of charcoal smoke triggers memories...I know it sounds funny...but it does especially when drinking wine..

Then wrap it in foil fat side up.

Wrapping the juices in with aluminum foil is a surefire way of guaranteeing juicy results; just like the pros!

When that is done reposition the meat away from the fire, bring the lid down and keep it at 250 to 300 degrees for 5-6 hours. Always keep an eye out on the coals and keep replenishing to keep it at the 250 to 300 degree range.

Then you can open up the foil and put your BBQ sauce if you like and re-seal the foil and bring the temperature down so the meat is at to 180 degrees. Use our meat thermometer!.. Make sure it stays at 180 degrees for about another additional hour.

When you’re done…Still wrapped! Transfer the meat to a cutting board and let it sit for 10 minutes; still wrapped! When you remove the foil and are ready to slice remember to cut against the grain. Eat Immediately and Enjoy!

Timing is everything when doing brisket right. Eating it when it’s just done is awesome

Depending on the sauce many wines can help pick up the flavor of the meat and with match up well.   

I prefer red wines like Zinfandel, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc with my brisket. It’s a win-win scenario.

Book Review - How to Taste – Janice Robinson (Completely Revised and Updated) 2008

How to Taste – Janice Robinson (Completely Revised and Updated) 2008

A great book. Probably her best because it communicates to everybody. It shows you the steps of tasting in a way that makes you love not only the wine but the process you go through as you learn as well. This is the poetry of a textbook; so practical. The benchmark so far.

The aging of excellent Spanish Rioja! Cosecha, Crianza, Reserva, and Grand Reserva

Spain is known for it’s rich history and culture. It’s terrific food and incredible wines that rival those of Italy and France. Spain’s premeir wine region is called Rioja (ree-oh-ha). There are other great regions but Rioja’s wine region goes back about 2000 years and today it’s among the most cutting edge. That in itself is incredible.

Rioja usually does refer to the region but a lot of the time it can refer to the wine itself. For example, one might say “Do you have a good Rioja?”

My friends always ask me to explain Rioja. Well... Rioja's main grape is Tempranillo. You can find it all over Spain; but arguably it's best expression is in Rioja. There are other varieties like Garnacha and Graciano as well. Great red wine.

Just like the French, Spain has a serious set of rules that protect the integrity of the wine. These laws are called the D.O.

In Rioja the aging process gets listed from youngest to oldest. These terms are Cosecha, Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. Each wine has its own distinct flavors and alot of it depends on the terroir. Rioja wines can be powerful and subtle and contain a dustiness which I think is similar to Rutherford California wines. A little toasty and a little spicy yet vibrant with good acidity, strawberries, dark cherries and raspberries come through. Some Tempranillo can be very Burgundian, very lush too...These wines are very food friendly; especially with agood hard sheep's milk cheese.

Cosecha requires the least amount of aging of them all; requiring barrel and bottle aging of less than 6 months. But to be honest there is alot of wine being called Cosecha. That's not to say that that it's wrong. Cosecha can be mindblowing but it's getting harder to distinguish the process.

Crianza wines require aging in oak barrels of at least 12 months with a minimum of another year in bottle.

Reserva wines require 36 months of aging between barrel and bottle. It must have at least 12 months in barrel.

Gran Reserva requires 24 months of aging in barrel and a further 36 months in bottle before before release sometimes a bit longer.

Some of the greats include Muga, Faustino, Marques de Riscal and Sierra Cantabria. Try one today.