With such a long rich history Italian wines continue
evolving and gaining momentum. Over the past decade we’ve seen great quality
especially in Piedmont which is in Northern Italy is at the foot of the Alps.
It’s still very Mediterranean though… It is the home of a long tradition of
fine wine. Barolo and Barbaresco are Piedmont’s
red wine Grand Cru’s. Nebbiolo is the grape and essentially along
with Sangiovese of Chianti it is Italy’s most noble grape variety.
In the 19th century after adopting French wine
making techniques, a modern style of wine making was discovered that became to
be known as the world-celebrated “king of wines, the wine of kings”; a
delicious, big brick red dry style with
high acidity that promises many years of cellar aging. These days it seems just
about every vintage of Barolo and Barbaresco offer excitement.
The interconnection of Piedmont’s renowned wines is the
Langhe region. It is the home of both the Barolo and Barbaresco and a place of
dramatic interplay of shadows and sun; foggy yet scenic. It’s unique. The
temperatures in the day and night often swing mightily. Sometimes the sky is
black and sometimes it’s white. Usually you have pockets rain throughout the
summer into the fall. The land is myriad of rich clays and easy draining sand
all which helps make commanding wines yet with amusing sophistication.
Today’ these Piedmont reds are conveyed in overindulgences.
Some suggest a more modern style which minimizes tannins and maximizes the youthful
fruit. It is super extracted fruit style with toasty oak.
The others are more traditional… offering powerful structured
savory tannins and a more earthy expressive nose. It’s the whiffs of tar, leather, perfumes of
violets and roses. The grip of the velvet tannins that vibrate on the palate,
the racy minerality of the wine from this region along with rushing flavors of
cherries, vanilla, figs and black licorice. The wine can be very profound and
have the propensity for cellaring( 5, 10 years or more!).
What is interesting is that Piedmont, Italy happens to lie
at the same latitude of Burgundy, France and they have a similar summer climate
and Piedmont is really the only place that Barolo and Barbaresco can grow with wide-ranging
success.
These distinctive wines; both made from the Nebbiolo grape
in general terms can be thought of this way. The Barolo is the more substantial,
tannic and opulent of the two, while Barbaresco is considered more elegant and
approachable.
By the way, the foods of the Piedmont that are habitually
served with mature Barolo and Barbaresco include many plates made with white
truffles or white truffle oil, Porcini mushrooms; cheeses like Bra Dura,
Fontina, Ribiole, Toma, and truffle infused cheeses. Also game (especially game
birds); and beef braised in red wine.
…Two great wines from two great wine producing zones.