Oak and Vanilla go hand in hand in wine

In wine speak term Oaky often pops up. What does it mean? A wine described as oaky if it received oak flavors from being in contact with oak. That simple.

But isn’t all wine in Oak? The answer in no. There are wine that are unoaked. Remember that wine is in the eye of the beholder; so, there’s no reason for you to not prefer a non-oaky wine. Wine is purely subjective.

Wine making is basically divided into two phases. The first is fermentation; when the grape juice becomes wine. The second is the maturation process, where the newly fermented wine goes from being immature and young to a mature adult. Some wines are fermented and finished in oak barrels. Other wines are oaked only during the maturing phase.

Contact with oak acts like a compound for chemical changes in wine. Many believe that oak is really secondary to the distinctive quality of a wine. Oaking imparts special flavors and aromas to the wine.

Now this is purely subjective; California Chardonnay for example, many enjoy oaky Chardonnay and it’s at the peak of its popularity while unoaked Riesling is considered currently unconventional.

Vanilla goes hand in hand with oakiness. New barrels contain vanillin and the wins aged in these barrels take on vanilla flavor as past of the oaky charm. In Ice Cream vanilla is very simple; while in wine, oak adds complexity, smokiness, smoothness, spiciness and gets us into territory of the mysterious words like structure which sounds like all those all those overenthusiastic or subtle adjectives that pop up in describing wine.

Somethings to remember…Barrel fermented means to white wines that the grape juice went into those barrels and emerged as wine. Barrel aged means that the wines aged in these barrels were put into them after fermentation. As for red wines; they are fermented with grape skins intact in stainless steel containers/tanks or large wooden vats. After fermentation, the skins are removed from the liquid and the wines are aged in small oak barrels. Remember some wines (white or red) are not aged in oak at all.

Coming mostly from California’s Central Coast, Rhône varieties—especially Syrah—to grow and flourish

Aaaah...the Rhone Rangers and the exciting and aggressive push to bring Rhone varietals to California in a big way. It’s good stuff.

Roasting meats, good smoked bacon, crackling fires, warm gingerbread, peppermint and baked spices may seem out of season in the spring time but not in the fall…. but they’re basic descriptors for Syrah and other Rhône-style blends.

The best of these wines are instantaneously big and robust with ripe fruit and savory with dark spices. Very few New World wines deliver these elements and that’s the thing. Later, I’ll mention some of the key regions to look at for a reference point.

Coming mostly from California’s Central Coast, with consistency, where a range of climatic conditions allow different traditional Rhône varieties—especially Syrah—to grow and flourish.  Grenache, Petite Syrah and Mourvdre are others.

Over the past years, despite the push, Syrah did not become California’s “next big thing,” as was it was widely predicted during the 1990s, and Central Coast.

Syrahs and Rhone blends are still in the  from the shadows of more popular red grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel (predominantly from Paso Robles) and Pinot Noir (from all over). Yet when grown in special spots and treated with care, these wines are arguably the most energetic, hedonistic and delicious wines being made on the West Coast today.

That goes for those being made in a more bombastic baby fantastic GSM blends from Paso Robles, those leaning more toward cool-climate pepperiness, like Big Basin in the Santa Cruz Mountains, and those somewhere in-between, like wines from the Ballard Canyon in the Santa Ynez Valley where the bright acidity shines on the palate….and let’s not forget those rich Petite Syrah up north in Lodi which impress.

Champagne is the most mercurial of French wines…but Does Champagne age?

Champagne is the most mercurial of French wines…but Does Champagne age?

A fallacy out there that implies that’s in the minds of some wine consumers is that Champagne doesn’t age.

The legend says that it does… As far as the best cuvées are concerned.

For example; just like in other northern marginal climates of classic vineyards like Chablis and Germany’s Mosel or Rhineland, Champagne has the possibility to be complex and long-lived especially when the weather is variable and diurnal.

The importance of acidity in harmony with the minerality of great terroirs, plus extended lees ageing which is important because it acts as a protective storage, can often result in vintages that can live for 10, 15 or 20 years – and for even half a century in outstanding years.

The general feeling is that most fine Champagnes in the three main categories – prestige, vintage and non-vintage – benefit from additional ageing in consumer’s homes which reveal more intense flavors.

So. the feeling is that Champagne really is suitable for laying down to varying degrees.

Normally, the focus on flavors in Champagne’s ageing cycle is made professionally at two key stages:

First stage, before disgorgement, when the wine stays fresh and tight, gradually enhanced by its contact with fine lees, which add complexity to the youthful flavors and gives a protective freshness to the wine. Champagne ages differently from still wines. Its’ ageing in contact with the lees is in an atmosphere saturated in CO2. Champagne evolves more slowly than still wines

After three to four years on lees for Non Vintage, five to eight years for vintage and more for prestige, it’s time for the second stage… disgorgement of the sediment.

Disgorgement of the sediment ensures ideal maturation through further bottle age as well as the development of more intense wine flavors such as dried apricot, sour dough bread, toast and spices like cumin in aged Chardonnay; leather, liquorice and that delicious whiff you get in the the coffee shops.

…In mature Pinot Noir you get notes of kirsch and fermented cherries especially in good Champagne rosés.

The question also comes up whether blanc de blancs have the capacity to age longer than blanc de noirs, or is it a case of considering wines individually?

The answer is in the soil; the terroir. Chardonnays on slopey shallow soils over chalk sub-soils like those of the Côte des Blancs where many popular Champagne houses are from give wines a capacity for long ageing. Also, the use of (malolactic fermentation or none) supports the capacity for wine evolve slowly.

Great Champagne is the most mercurial of French wines, its character changing very unpredictably when least expected. It’s part of the danger and excitement. In steering its journey to beautiful maturity, you may think the wine is going to turn right, but quite often it actually turns left. I guess that is just part of the enduring fascination of ageing Champagne.

Rioja wine: Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva. Each of the levels increase the grape quality

Placed up near the top of Spain is the Rioja winemaking region which is known for producing classic red wines based on the Tempranillo grape often blended with Garnacha

Tradition has it that there are clear ways of making this wine that make it what it is. Much like great Bordeaux wine or the wines of Italy there are rules to follow. But what makes Rioja wine individual is the process to bestow quality....and it works, due to the ability of these wines to age and maintain their Spanish essence.

There are three distinct quality levels of Rioja wine: Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva. Each of the levels increase the grape quality along with the oak and bottle aging requirements.

Crianza

This is a fresh, fruit-forward youthful red wine that is aged in oak for a minimum of one year and then spends another year aging in the bottle. The Crianza is well-priced and averages at around $10 -  $15 a bottle and packs the reputation a a wine made with quality. The will age, no problem.

Crianza has a reputation for being very food friendly – give it a try with tasty Spanish offerings like appetizers, croquettes, cheeses and tapas....even oysters and clams. This is an easygoing, everyday wine that will not disappoint and offers good, consistent value year in and year out.

Reserva

The Reserva ups the ante a bit from the Crianza both in complexity and in price. Again, Tempranillo is the major red grape and makes its presence known with commanding cherry flavors along with acidity. This combination makes the wine very palatable on it's own and with food. Some wines a re just food wines; a Reserva can most of the time be drunk as a big wine and a crowd pleaser. The aging requirements for a Reserva are a minimum of one year in the barrel and another two years aging in either the barrel or bottle.

The price point for a Reserva ranges from around $15 to over $35, with super value packed into every dollar. Think about what you often have to pay for a good Cabernet. What's often great about the Reserva is that it's a very versatile red wine that eagerly complements an assortment of food options. Consider pairing it with grilled dishes, fish, octopus, beef, lamb, it has a 'sweet-spot' for ham (or jamón as they say in Spain).

Gran Reserva

​The creme de la creme of the Rioja Reds is the fittingly named, Gran Reserva. These wines require barrel aging for two years and must have another three years (minimum) of bottle aging before they are released, making them a terrific wine find as they have already enjoyed 5 years of aging before they may even grace the merchant shelves. So you'll notice the bottled years are much older on the shelf. Great wines to store away. The oak and the aging can make the wines a standout for years to come.

In many cases the  Gran Reserva is not made every year but enjoys its high status because it is only made in extraordinary vintages. The Gran Reserva is assertive in  both depth, body and intrigue It's elegant and in many cases won't breaking the bank, as it starts at around $25 - $30 a bottle and rivals many New and Old World reds that are asking three times the price. At the restaurant check the Gran Reserva out.

Spanish wines are so hot these days. Some of the best values are coming from all over Spain and many are adhering to the Rioja method of making their wines; which says a lot about it and its' history. So pick up a Rioja today and enjoy the taste and versatility.

New Cocktail Appreciation, Raising the Bar, the South taking a a Front Seat

Just like wine, whiskey requires a master blender to take an strong and interesting palate. Often he or she practices an old art of mixing to bring things into balance for the final product and like second and third wines there needs to be constant sampling to be able to separate the exceptional from the acceptable. Today's bartenders are similar in the same way.

There is definitely a southern cocktail revolution going on out there. Whether it's a restaurant, saloon, neo-speakeasies, hotel bars or club a barrier has definitely been broken. I've been all over the south in the past year or so; it can be Asheville NC, Mobile Alabama, New Orleans LA, Charleston SC across the low country, Oxford Mississippi, Decatur GA, down all the way to Tampa FL. There's a movement of fakelore or folklore whatever you want to call it that has folks paying homage, exhuming lost recipes, trying to respect the old ways. It's even seething into the mainstream restaurants....and let's be clear; a lot of labor goes into conjuring a proper cocktail and the food the goes with it (but that's another story).

It's happening. So ask for a Gin Fizz, a bottled Sazerac, a Julep del Professore, Rum Negroni or a Rum Old- Fashioned or any of these playful libations and see what you are in store for. It's going to be a modern rebound of a drink that'll be refocused on the classic with a liberating variation. Take a chance trust the uncommon palate.

2015 Bordeaux looks like a Big Winner; Get ready to stock up; Margaux may be the Champ of Vintage.

I have had a few bottles from the 2015 Bordeaux vintage and they have been very good; which bodes well for the vintage. For what I’ve been able to gather is that the vintage is fantastic and the main worries are that there may be the tendency for the wines to be over extracted or very powerful to say the least. But that was said about the 2003 and 2005, the better vintage. Seek out your favorites for 2015 as they arrive in stores.

One wine is hitting 100 points on most tasting reports and that’s the great Chateau Margaux and it will come in a commemorative. What started as $500 a bottle has quickly grown to up $1000 a bottle and waiting lists…

Château Margaux 2015 will come in a black bottle with writing and a design of the estate in gold. Margaux communicated that it was the first time it had ever commissioned a one-off design for its grand vin for any vintage. So, it’s becoming a real keeper.

It is a mark of estate owner Corinne Mentzelopoulos’ respect for Paul Pontallier, who joined Margaux in 1983 and became Managing Director in 1990. He passed away and was a very close friend and was credited with steering the wine in the last decade. Together, they have been praised for significantly modernizing and improving the winemaking.

Bordeaux 2015 was Pontallier’s final vintage at Margaux. He died of cancer in March 2016, one week before the beginning of en primeur week for the widely praised 2015 vintage; not seeing the 100 point accolades. The bottle is now in his honor.

Special Report, 2017 was a year full of some memorable wines. Here are 5 of my favorites

By Ralph Del Rio, Wine Correspondent

2017 was a year full of some memorable wines. Here are 5 of my favorites of the year I've handpicked. Each year I try to come up with wines that stand out for me and try to describe them for you. My top 5 wines for the year are 4 from California made my list this year and 1 great value from Australia:

PlumpJack Syrah 2014 Syrah/Shiraz from Napa Valley, California

An intense concentrated aroma of blackberry, blueberry. Boysenberry pie. Structured. Pepper spice on the finish, the oak gives off smokiness to the nose cacao chocolate to the finish.

2015 Flowers Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir California

Sweet red cherry, plum, dried flowers, tea and tobacco flavors. Soft and cagey, totally approachable; Firm tannin yet subtle, Very polished.

2014 Louis M. Martini Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Over performing Champ’ of the year. One of the strongest efforts. eucalyptus, cedar and blackberry jam. Underbrush tones; Multilayered chewy tannins, fresh, good acidity with good fruit finish.

 2015 Turley "Estate" Napa Valley Zinfandel, California

Great aromatics and intense fruit. Wild berries, rich raspberry fruit ; powerful wine. Hints, of burnt cherry pit, smoke and cedar Elegant big and plush.

 Paringa 2015 Shiraz South Australia

This Aussie Shiraz takes me back to the style of the early 2000’s when Aussie Shiraz shook the world. It’s bold, full-bodied, warm and plush, oozing with blackberries, gobs of plums and big with vanilla and mocha flavors. Very obscene and hedonistic. Try the sparking version too!