Barolo and Barbaresco… Two great Italian wines from two great wine producing zones

With such a long rich history Italian wines continue evolving and gaining momentum. Over the past decade we’ve seen great quality especially in Piedmont which is in Northern Italy is at the foot of the Alps. It’s still very Mediterranean though… It is the home of a long tradition of fine wine.  Barolo and Barbaresco are Piedmont’s  red wine Grand Cru’s.  Nebbiolo is the grape and essentially along with Sangiovese of Chianti it is Italy’s most noble grape variety.

In the 19^th century after adopting French wine making techniques, a modern style of wine making was discovered that became to be known as the world-celebrated “king of wines, the wine of kings”; a delicious, big brick red  dry style with high acidity that promises many years of cellar aging. These days it seems just about every vintage of Barolo and Barbaresco offer excitement.

The interconnection of Piedmont’s renowned wines is the Langhe region. It is the home of both the Barolo and Barbaresco and a place of dramatic interplay of shadows and sun; foggy yet scenic. It’s unique. The temperatures in the day and night often swing mightily. Sometimes the sky is black and sometimes it’s white. Usually you have pockets rain throughout the summer into the fall. The land is myriad of rich clays and easy draining sand all which helps make commanding wines yet with amusing sophistication.

Today’ these Piedmont reds are conveyed in overindulgences. Some suggest a more modern style which minimizes tannins and maximizes the youthful fruit. It is super extracted fruit style with toasty oak.

The others are more traditional… offering powerful structured savory tannins and a more earthy expressive nose.  It’s the whiffs of tar, leather, perfumes of violets and roses. The grip of the velvet tannins that vibrate on the palate, the racy minerality of the wine from this region along with rushing flavors of cherries, vanilla, figs and black licorice. The wine can be very profound and have the propensity for cellaring( 5, 10 years or more!).

What is interesting is that Piedmont, Italy happens to lie at the same latitude of Burgundy, France and they have a similar summer climate and Piedmont is really the only place that Barolo and Barbaresco can grow with wide-ranging success.

These distinctive wines; both made from the Nebbiolo grape in general terms can be thought of this way. The Barolo is the more substantial, tannic and opulent of the two, while Barbaresco is considered more elegant and approachable.

By the way, the foods of the Piedmont that are habitually served with mature Barolo and Barbaresco include many plates made with white truffles or white truffle oil, Porcini mushrooms; cheeses like Bra Dura, Fontina, Ribiole, Toma, and truffle infused cheeses. Also game (especially game birds); and beef braised in red wine.

…Two great wines from two great wine producing zones.

Book Review - Matt Kramer’s Making Sense of Italian Wine 2006 – Matt Kramer

Matt Kramer’s Making Sense of Italian Wine 2006 – Matt Kramer

This book is one of my favorites. When Matt tells you think about Italy in terms of States and then he breaks it all down by the varietals and what States you can find the varietals; including what varietals make up certain wines and the key wine makers(new style vs old school too)and producer’s. It’s just a great perspective to look and learn Italian Wine.

Special Report - A group of tasty great red wines to hunt for and drink over the next 5 to 6 years. Stock up!

By Ralph Del Rio, Wine Correspondent


There is a certain passion associated with a bottle of wine. A good bottle of wine is the end result of years and years of experimentation and practice.  So, it makes for a good time to celebrate especially if you can find a great deal.

Most of these global wines listed below are great values; they are all under $20 but most importantly drink up to two or three sometimes four times the price. How can that be !?!

These are several of my favorites right now and they are worth the hunt.

Bodegas Mas Alta Black Slate La Vilella Alta 2010 Priorat, Spain

Notes of pencil, blueberry, raspberries, crushed rocks and cut flowers on the nose of this inky/darkly-colored wine. It is intense, it is big and complex  yet supple with nice tannins and a long finish.  

Falesco Merlot IGT Umbria 2010 Merlot  Italy

Fragrant, flowers  and dramatically dark fruit. The wine retains a vivacity. It is lean and lively through to the finish; great juiciness.

Badenhorst  Secateurs  Red Blend  2010 South Africa

Surrounded by black tea, honeyed spice and vanilla bean inflections, the mouthfeel is decisively structured with medium tannins and an inner acidity, finishing  on a soft, citrusy and roasty note.

Tikal Natural Organic Malbec 2010  Argentina

Ripe and firm, with harmonious acidity framing the black fruits, black cherry and briny flavors which trap a subtle but pushing sweetness. With Sandalwood, violets, tobacco notes, it ends with chewy, dusty tannins and good length.

Jim Barry Cover Drive Cabernet Sauvignon 2009  Coonawarra, Australia

Concentrated cassis and blackberries on the nose with hints of pencil shavings, cloves and bay leaf. Medium to full bodied, it has a good level of tannins, lively acidity, wild spices with hints of mint. Very mouth filling, with very pure berry flavors, finishing long.

Enjoy!

Sicily used to be known for bulk wine, not anymore...

Sicily used to be known as the Island where bulk wine, blending wine ruled the day. It was basically alot of Catarratto and Trebbiano grapes; and mostly white varieties. The place where Marsala was king ...It still is super famous...

With such great land, microclimates, good people and the right approach over the past 20 years; old vines and volume producing vineyards have been ripped out and replaced with more red and international varietals.

Wine trustworthiness has been a long time coming for Sicily. Today Sicily has 22 DOC (denominazione di origine controllata) regions and one DOCG (denominazione di origine e garantita). Some of these accentuate a single grape variety; while others allow blending. All these areas are busy reveling the best grapes of their territory. There are a lot of IGT’s making wine as well which can represent good values.

Today Nero d’ Avola is the island’s second most planted variety after Catarratto.   There are ten native varieties(they account for  about 80% of all the vines), such as Frappato, Inzolia and Perricone and the like; plus non indigenous varieties like Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and others.

Sicily is about 6% the size of California. To put some things into perspective; Sicily has nearly 350,000 acres of vines according to official statistics and produces roughly 200,000 gallons of wine. It’s in 3^rd place in the amount of vines to wines to California and then Australia….and not by much. But essentially, Sicily is overflowing in wine.

A lot of the changes have come with successful struggles against organized crime and corruption. Yet Sicilian’s know they have a great wine future. Just like Tuscany, where outsiders had to come in and start making awesome wine, it’s happening in Sicily and changes and inspired improvements have happened and it is specifically because of this that Sicilian’s extremely and enormously renewed their interests in the local varieties.

It’s important to note that Sicily was one of the most ancient Greek conquests, eighth century BC and wine was being made way back then and they have the claim in Italy for being the most ancient and in wine that carries some weight.

Given all this relatively new competitive outlook, it sure comes with its share of complications. But for the wine enthusiast it is great news although it brings confusion as to what’s good, really good and not so good.

Here are some noteworthy producers: Palari, Carlo Hauner, Planeta, Tasca D’ Amerita/Regaleali, Feudi Principi di Butera, Di Bartoli(for Marsala), Benanti and Feudo Montoni.

It's Time to be a Cheese Aficionado!

A lot of us don't even think twice about going to the local gourmet shop on a Friday evening for complimentary wine tastings or even asking someone for help at the local wine store. It’s time to start thinking the same way about cheese. Time to be a Cheese Aficionado!

Now cheese can get very pricey. So when you are looking at cheeses that can cost upwards of $15 -$20 a pound, you want to make sure that you're going to like what you're buying. The only way to know for sure is to taste. It is so worth the journey.

With the massive selection of specialty cheeses available these days; don’t limit yourself to the basic 4 or 5 cheeses (Monterrey Jack, Sharp Cheddar, Swiss etc...) you see prepackaged on the shelves.

Trying a new cheese whenever you visit the cheese shop can help you grow and coach your enjoyment to uncover a delight for cheeses you would certainly miss….and we’re talking intense delight!

In the same way, if you think you are limited to hard cheeses, take a walk on the wild side and try a younger softer cheese. Even if you think you are not a fan of blue cheese? There are a lot of different nuances and flavors. Maybe you'll find one you like. Not sure about very pungent cheese? Go ahead and ask for a sample.

Believe me, there are so many different types of cheeses from all over the world that you really need to find a cheese expert to help teach you, get an idea what you might like, chart your course; and steer you in the right direction.

I get my Cheeses from a place called Vintage Wine Cellars and Massaro's in Tampa FL...but Fresh Market, Whole Foods and also Trader Joe's has some great choices.

Listen, any worthy cheese monger (the guy or gal with that hat and the apron) will be happy to let you sample the stuff and talk to you. Do not be afraid. Just say “Can I try that?” …and don’t forget to pick up a bottle of wine too. Now that’s a whole other story.

Today's Choice Wine - 2009 Numanthia-Termes

The 2009 Numanthia-Termes has been on my radar for some time now I really liked the 2000 and the 2004. This bodega makes some hedonistic red wines. From Spain's Toro is old-vine Tinto de Toro (Tempranillo) It’s powerful and supple at the same time. Oak spices, blackberries, brown spices and cherry notes …It has a silky texture with lush fruits It’s concentrated, complex and has a great finish. I think its great year in and out it seems. Modern yet classic. Pair it up with smoked meats, Smoked Ribs, A busy Paella with Chorizo.

Is the barrel about flavor? Some thoughts on the role that oak plays in wine

The integrating of of oak into wines has always been part of wine making and in the past 30-40 years it’s been the French oak and the American oak that is most used. The vine and the oak tree have been used together for centuries. The relationship is multifaceted and involved.

It can be used to intensify flavors. It can be very impressive. It can add depth and structure. But the overuse can make it excessive and disproportionate. Racking and oak age are important to consider; so is maturation and the toast levels using steam or fire and of course the grapes themselves that each acts differently in the barrel and reading the terroir’s effect.

Is the barrel about flavor? Many serious winemakers say no. it’s about a balance between the fruit range, oxygen and durability of the wine. But you can imagine how it all comes into play.

American oak is white oak or Quercus alba. It has a noted vanilla or coconut nuance which can provide cutting tannins. It is also capable of unleashing sweet, gentle broad character.

French oak is from either the pedunculate oak, robur or sessile oak. It is understated, nuttier and smokier with softer tannins. Some say French oak gives a more traditional or classic feel which allow the terroir to come out more strongly.

Some of  high-end oaks are Taransaud, Darnajou and Dominique Laurent. Tarnasaud really takes a while for the elegant complexity to kick in and then Wow! Darnajou tends infuses itself in the wine throughout which is a characteritic that is enjoyable and Dominique Laurent and his nicknamed "magic casks" that are very exclusive.

Either way…a few thoughts on oak barrels and how it’s the partnership that counts. It’s a relationship of wine aesthetics that help make up the magic of wines pleasure.

A quick example, a friend brought over one of these high altitude Malbec's...3400 feet in elevation. It's one the latest crazes. Why? Becuause the water has to struggle to get up to the grapes; and the coolness of the climate makes for slower riping, which is interesting for this grape.

Now the kicker...It has 50% New French Oak and 50% New American Oak.

It makes you think about the fuit hiding behind the powerful oak and its aging potential and the tannins that it delivers. Toasty vanilla and caramel, big and bordeaux-like in its grip. Overall it was a really great wine.